Zanzibar Travel Guide: everything you need to know

To get to Zanzibar you can either fly or take a ferry.

The two main hubs to reach Zanzibar via aeroplane are through Nairobi in Kenya, or Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Dar is also the place from which you can catch a ferry. It’s easy to travel to Zanzibar from popular places in Tanzania like Arusha and Kilimanjaro: there are direct flights from these places, or you can travel by bus and then ferry via Dar.

Taking the ferry

To get from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar by ferry you will need to go to the main port. There are four ferries a day, leaving between the hours of 7am and 4pm. The journey takes around two hours. I didn’t take the ferry but have been told that the waters tend to be calmer in the morning, so if you get seasick mornings may be the better time for you to to travel!

There are four different categories of tickets, ranging from Economy to Royal class, and as a non-resident you will pay a different price to residents. Expect to pay roughly between £26 and £80 per trip (you will pay either in dollars or Tanzanian shillings -I’d always recommend the latter).

It’s a good idea to book your ticket in advance, if possible. You can book online, or at the ferry terminal. The ticket office is in the building to the right of the gate that leads to the ferry; there are lots of other places that you can buy tickets but I’d recommend using the main office. If you do book online, you will need to collect your tickets from the terminal before you travel. When you book, you will need your passport.

If someone offers to carry your bag, politely decline; you don’t need them to do this and whilst it’s likely they’re just trying to make some money you leave yourself open to getting scammed.

When you arrive in Stone Town there will be taxis waiting outside the ferry port but I would recommend using a trusted taxi driver when in Zanzibar. You can contact me for my recommendation, or there are also lots of Facebook groups for Zanzibar where tourists and travellers can vouch for the taxi driver they have used. I’ll go into more detail about taxi drivers in the ‘getting around’ section.

Flying to Zanzibar

From your country of origin the two main connecting hubs to fly to Zanzibar will either be to Nairobi in Kenya or Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Flying from Nairobi to Zanzibar costs from £110 one way, taking around 1 hour and 30 minutes; flying from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar costs upward of £30 one way and takes just over 20 minutes.

There are other connecting hubs, like Dubai and Istanbul. Only a limited number of countries have direct flights to Zanzibar; there are currently no direct flights to Zanzibar from the UK.

How to get to Zanzibar from the UK

To get to Zanzibar from the UK you will usually need to fly from Heathrow, Gatwick or Stansted airports. The main airlines operating this route are Kenya Airways (my fave), Turkish Airlines, Emirates, Qatar and Ethiopian. You’ll need to fly via a connecting hub (Nairobi, Istanbul, Dubai, Doha or Addis Ababa), so factor in layover times.

The average flight time, including layover, is 14 hours (the fastest possible journey time is 11 hours and 25 minutes).

How much it costs to fly to Zanzibar will depend on what time of year you travel.

Entry Requirements

To be able to enter Zanzibar you will need the following:

• A visa (more details below)
• Mandatory Zanzibar Travel insurance (read this for more information).
• A passport with at least six months’ validity from the date of your arrival.
• A yellow fever certificate (for those who have travelled through a high risk country).

Getting a visa

If you are a UK national, you will need a visa to enter Zanzibar.

The visa-exempt countries are: Antigua & Barbuda, Anguilla, Ashmore & Certie Island, Bahamas, Barbados, Bermuda, Belize, Brunei, British Virgin Island, British Indian Ocean Territory, Botswana, Cyprus, Cayman Island, Channel Island, Cocoas Island, Cook Island, Christmas Island, Dominica, Falkland Island, Gambia, Ghana, Gibraltar, Grenada, Guernsey, Guyana, Heard Island, Hong Kong, Isle of man, Jamaica, Jersey, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho, Malawi, Montserrat, Malaysia, Madagascar, Malta, Mauritius, Macao, Mozambique, Nauru, Naue Island, Norfolk Island, Namibia, Papua new Guinea, Rwanda, Romania, Ross Dependency, Samoa, Seychelles, Singapore, Swaziland, Solomon Island, St. Kitts&Navis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, St. Helena, South African Republic, Trinidad & Tobago, Turks & Caicos, Tokelau, Tonga, Tuvalu, Vanuatu, Uganda, Zambia, Zimbabwe.

There are different types of visas available: a single entry (or tourist) visa that lasts up to three months; a multiple entry visa that lasts up to 12 months; a transit visa lasting up to seven days and a business visa which usually lasts up to three months.

To get a tourist visa you can apply online, or get your visa upon arrival. It costs $50. I personally got mine when I arrived, as I experienced issues with the eVisa website. I was asked to fill out a simple form and I paid in cash. It was a quick and simple process. Please note that you may require proof of a return ticket.

If you decide to stay on Zanzibar longer and are able to find employment, or you have your own business, you can apply for a residency visa that lasts two years.

You can find out more about entry requirements for Zanzibar and Tanzania here.

When is the best time to travel to Zanzibar?

The best time to visit Zanzibar is, in my opinion, any time as there are advantages to going in low season as well as high season. Zanzibar has an average temperature of 30 degrees Celsius year round.

There are four main seasons, split into two categories:

Dry Season

Dry Season runs from July to October and this is generally considered the best time to travel to Zanzibar: you are pretty much guaranteed sunshine all day long. It’s also Safari high season and Zanzibar is especially popular during that time as visitors combine a Safari with time at the beach.

December to March is also considered a dry season and February is the hottest month.

Wet Season

The long rains happen during the months of March, April and May. Humidity is higher during these months and there is a high risk of heavy downpours. Rain showers tend to be short but torrential, and mostly in the afternoons or evenings. Temperatures are still warm.

The short rains occur during November and December. These months don’t see the same levels of rainfall as during the months of the long rains, but you may experience some showers.

The advantage of travelling during wet season is Zanzibar will be less crowded, so it’s a more peaceful time to travel. You’ll also be able to take advantage of cheaper flights and accomodation.

Ramadan

Zanzibar’s population is 99% Muslim and therefore it’s worth being aware that if you travel to Zanzibar during the month of Ramadan there could be a slight impact on your experience.

If you stay, and eat, at a hotel resort then it’s likely you won’t notice the difference, and tourist activities operate as normal, but if you prefer to venture out and explore you will find that many cafes and restaurants will be closed during daylight hours.

Being culturally respectful is especially important during this time: dress modestly (especially in towns and villages), learn some polite greetings and don’t eat or drink in public during daylight hours, when the local population will be fasting. Night times are when everyone will be energised and enjoying life.

It’s therefore actually an ideal time to get an immersive cultural experience, and you may find yourself being handed a bottle of water, or dates to eat, if you’re wandering about at sunset!

Best month to visit Zanzibar

I visited Zanzibar during the months of December and January, as I arrived just in time for New Year’s Eve. I fully endorse visiting Zanzibar as part of your NYE celebrations. The temperature was perfect and I only experienced a couple of light showers towards the end of my stay.

If I had to choose a different month to visit Zanzibar then I’d probably choose September, as flight prices are relatively low but it’s still dry season. Also, as schools are back then there should be fewer tourists.

How to get around Zanzibar

The main forms of transport on Zanzibar are car (usually taxi or hire car – Zanzibar doesn’t yet have Uber or any similar app), dala dala (a form of bus), or boda boda (motorbike taxis).

Zanzibar is quite large and taxi journeys can be expensive. For example, the average price from Stone Town to Nungwi via taxi is $50 one way. This is why it’s a good idea to get a recommendation for a trusted taxi driver who will then likely give you a deal if you use them for all your journeys. Plus, of course, if others have vouched for them you’re highly unlikely to get scammed or put into an unsafe situation.

There is a shared taxi called the Zanzibus but I never used it, so can’t comment on it.

I didn’t hire a car and if you choose to do so I’d recommend doing a little research on driving around Zanzibar so you’re well prepared. Many roads aren’t paved and driving at night can be risky as there are some roads where cars are targeted for robberies.

Dala dala and boda boda are the cheapest methods of transport. It cost me 500 Tanzanian shillings (14p) to travel from Paje to Jambiani on a dala dala but the same journey in a taxi was $10 if paying in dollars and $7 in Tanzanian shillings, so always try to pay in the local currency if possible. In Paje, any taxi journey is a minimum of 10k Tanzanian shillings, regardless of the distance.

Dala dala don’t really have an organised system of stops and timetables; you can literally just stand at the side of the road and wait for one to pass by. In towns locals can direct you to the stop (it is unlikely there will be a sign) and be prepared that they may not leave until they’re full of passengers. Some dala dala look like the Kenyan Matatu buses, or a mini bus, but many look like a flatbed truck rather than a bus. You sit on low benches and any bags or other items go on the roof.

Generally people pay as they are getting off at their chosen stop; there is a man who will take your money. He’ll usually be identifiable by the cash between his fingers!

You will need to pay in cash, using Tanzanian shillings. Try to have coins and the correct money, if possible, or else you’ll most likely pay a Muzungu (white person) tax!

Getting from the airport

The best way to get to your accommodation from Zanzibar airport is by taxi. If you are staying in a hotel they will most likely offer to arrange your transport but you’ll always pay a premium for this service.

I arranged a taxi pickup in advance with a taxi driver who had been recommended to me by a fellow solo female traveller. He initially told me it would be $35 from the airport to Paje but later lowered that to $30 as I told him I intended to use his services for several journeys – which I did. Paying in Tanzanian shillings will always get you a better price than paying in dollars.

Almost all taxi drivers use WhatsApp so it’s easy to communicate with them.

Where to stay in Zanzibar?

Each part of the island offers something different, so the best part of Zanzibar to stay in will depend on what you’re looking for and what you want from your time there. Ideally, if you have the time, stay in more than one location so that you can maximise your Zanzibar experience.

You’ll find a range of accommodation options to suit every budget, from hostels and co-working spaces, to AirBnbs and lodges, to luxury boutique and resort hotels.

If you want a sea view, then choose the front line of any coastal accommodation.

North

The North is probably the most popular, and touristy, area to stay in Zanzibar. Nungwi is best for those who are seeking bars and nightlife; Kendwa is more laid back and a beach-life vibe. The beaches here are good, as the tide remains fairly constant, and this is the area where you’ll find an abundance of resorts. The North is also the place for your best instagrammable sunset photos!

East

The East coast is perfect for watching sunrise, watersports and getting a feel for authentic Zanzibari village life. I stayed in Paje, which is probably the most vibrant place on the East coast. It’s known for wind and kitesurfing, as well as nightlife, and has a variety of cafes and restaurants. Read my review of Mr Kahawa Restaurant and Accommodation in Paje here.

After Paje, I moved to Jambiani, which hasn’t yet become consumed by tourism. In Jambiani, you can experience village life and watch local women harvest seaweed on the beach in the mornings. In my opinion, the East coast is the best part of Zanzibar to stay in but the sea does go out quite far at low tide and so there are times of the day where you won’t be able to swim.

South

If you’re looking for somewhere more off the beaten path, then the South of Zanzibar may be the place for you. It’s a quiet part of the island, with small cove-like beaches and minimal infrastructure.

West

I’d really recommend factoring in at least of couple of nights in Stone Town when deciding where to stay in Zanzibar. Stone Town is a UNESCO world heritage site and the main city in Zanzibar. It’s also well-preserved example of a Swahili trading town, steeped in history. The narrow, maze-like, streets are an experience in of themselves. I will admit, Stone Town can be a little overwhelming at times – an assault on the senses, especially for the neurodiverse. But it’s still worth the experience.

This is likely the place where you’ll really be able to absorb Zanzibari culture.

I stayed two nights in an AirBnb designed for artists that was a tranquil escape from the bustle.

What to do in Zanzibar?

At this point I’ll caveat that I’m an experiential traveller, meaning when I travel my aim is to understand, and experience, as much as possible about the local culture and life of the place I’m exploring. I very rarely go to tourist sites or on any excursions.

For this particular trip, my goals were to:

• Watch the dawn rise on a new year from somewhere beautiful.
• Experience a little of local life by staying in Jambiani village and Stone Town.
• Improve my Swahili, as Tanzanian Swahili is more formal than the Swahili I learnt in Kenya.

I planned, and researched, where I would stay – and when – but beyond that wanted to remain super flexible. If you’ve read my Zanzibar travel stories then you’ll know how everything unfolded; if not, the TL;DR version is I was befriended by the Maasai and through them got to experience a side of Zanzibar that very few visitors are privileged enough to see, including eating a Maasai meal in the Maasai section of Jambiani village.

Tourist activities

For those who are looking for a more traditional holiday in Zanzibar, the usual tourist activities include:

• Spice tour
• Blue safari
• Dhow cruise
• Prison Island tour
• Nakupenda beach
• A meal at The Rock restaurant
• See red monkeys at Jozani Forest
• Stone Town’s Forodhani Night Food Market
• Swim with turtles at Nungwi Mnarani Aquarium

In Stone Town, popular tourist hotspots include the Freddy Mercury museum (yes, that’s where he was from) and the old Slave market.

I did actually go to the Forodhani Night Food Market in Stone Town, as several locals recommended it to me, but, personally I thought it was both overhyped and overpriced. Locals do go there, but as a treat. Swahili people love to bargain, so haggling prices is common.

As a solo female I also got a LOT of attention and harassment from men there, which was overwhelming, The moment I was joined by the (male) manager of my AirBnB the harassment stopped, so if you’re male or not travelling alone you will for sure have a better experience there than a lone woman.

Additionally, I know of some people who got food poisoning from food they purchased at the market (some of it can be left out for a long time).

Although it wasn’t an experience I enjoyed, I am still glad I had it as it is integral to Stone Town life; the market is situated right on the waterfront, near where the local boys jump off the harbour wall.

Zanzibar nightlife

In all honesty, I didn’t try to experience Zanzibar’s nightlife as, after being adopted by my Maasai family, my experience took a very different path. The only nightclub I went to was a mystery to me as I was taken there by the waiters at Mr Kahawa on New Year’s day and had no clue where I was going! My wristband said ‘Spice’ on it and it wasn’t far from Paje. It was a large, outdoor, nightclub playing Afro beats…that’s all I know.

If you’re staying on the East coast then everyone highly recommends the Tuesday Afro beats parties at Summer Beach, but I never experienced a Summer Beach party myself.

What NOT to do in Zanzibar?

The main thing not to do in Zanzibar is to disrespect local customs. Walking around Stone Town I saw countless tourists dressed in very little but as a majority Muslim country you should cover your knees and shoulders when anywhere other than the beach and especially when walking around towns and villages. This can be as easy as draping a light shawl around your shoulders.

How to travel ethically in Zanzibar

A popular tourist activity is to book onto a ‘Village Tour’. I would not recommend doing this, as at best locals are being objectified, like animals in a zoo, and at worst they’re being exploited. Instead choose to stay in Jambiani village, and/ or Stone Town, in accommodation that is owned by locals and not foreigners. This way, you can experience local life whilst contributing directly to the local economy.

Many of the hotels, resorts and rentals are owned by foreign investors (including Mr Kahawa), so it won’t always be possible to stay somewhere that’s locally-owned. But if you have the option it’s the most ethical choice: locals are being forced to live further and further inland due to tourist accommodation consuming the coastline.

Many tourists also want to bring items to give to the local population. This, too, can be problematic. What I’m about to say, I say with kindness but it still may be a difficult read:

If you’re planning a trip to Zanzibar and have been thinking of bringing items to give to the local population, please take some time to reflect upon your why: are you doing it through kindness, or ego? To feel good about yourself?

Our actions have consequences and the danger of there being consequences from doing this are very real.

Firstly, it perpetuates stereotypes about Africa: that all Africans are poor and need to be saved. White saviourism is a real thing and it feeds racism. If you wouldn’t think about taking similar items to a European country, or distribute them in your own, then that’s a signal that you need to do some reflection. You’re sending the message that you don’t see yourself as equal to the local population.

The most common items tourists bring are sweets/ treats for children and/ or school equipment.

This conditions local children to expect free handouts and perpetuates the stereotype that all white people are rich. Sweets are especially bad as they can lead to dental hygiene issues but it also makes locals extremely fearful as to why these visiting Muzungu are trying to lure their children with sweets; it’s seen as predatory.

School equipment is a little better, but often leads to fights and unfair distribution as the oldest and strongest claim it all for themselves. There can also be a level of corruption that means that any money or equipment given to schools, even directly, rarely actually benefits the children.

Do you truly understand the needs of the community you are seeking to help? If you really want to assist you’ll need to undertake substantial research to ensure that you ARE helping, as opposed to inadvertently creating additional problems. Work with in-country organisations that have proven to be reputable. Please also purchase anything you’re donating IN Zanzibar, so that your money benefits the local economy, as opposed to bringing it out from your home country.

Speaking to locals, learning about their lives and their culture, and seeking to understand, is what will help most.

Is Zanzibar expensive?

As with many places, Zanzibar can be as cheap or as expensive as you make it. If you stay in a hotel and eat at tourist-oriented establishments, then prices will roughly be what you’d expect to pay at home.

But if you take the experiential route, and stay and eat in local places, it can be incredibly cheap. For example, in Jambiani, where I spent most of my time, I stayed in a co-working space called Freshi in the village which was around £20 a night for an en-suite room and breakfast. Taking the dala dala costs pennies. And a meal in a local place costs less than £3.

Currency exchange

You won’t be able to purchase Tanzanian shillings outside of Zanzibar, or Tanzania. I’d recommend taking some dollars, which can act like a secondary currency, but you’ll get a cheaper price if you pay in TZS. Zanzibar is mainly cash-based, so get some local currency at the airport. There will be an ATM outside of your arrival terminal, but if you walk out of the main doors, turn right and walk to Terminal 2 (the domestic terminal) you will find ATMs and mobile phone SIM kiosks – as they’re mainly used by locals they charge less than the ones outside the international terminal.

There aren’t many ATMs on Zanzibar, which is why getting cash out at the airport is a good idea. The only exception to this is if you’re staying in Stone Town for your first few days. Stone Town has several ATMs. But on the East coast, for example, there’s one in Paje only…and it’s not always working. Be prepared for high ATM fees: I took out £140 upon arrival and got charged an extra £10 in fees. That money did last my entire time on Zanzibar, though, as I was living like a local – I actually still had plenty of TZS remaining when it was time to leave.

Only hotels and larger bars and restaurants will accept card payments, but you’ll likely have to pay around 5% per transaction for the privilege.

What to pack

If you’re from the UK you won’t need a plug adaptor; everywhere uses the three pin plug we’re used to. Definitely bring a power bank, suncream and modest clothes so that you can cover your arms/ shoulders.

I only saw a mosquito in Stone Town and Zanzibar isn’t generally considered a high risk destination for Malaria, but you may want to bring anti-Malaria medication as a precaution. I chose not to do this, but please do your research and make the choice that’s right for you. Definitely bring plenty of mosquito repellant, just in case!

Bring at least one photocopy of your passport and other important documents, so that you have backups if anything gets lost or stolen.

I found it weirdly difficult to get my hands on a pair of tweezers there, so make sure you bring a pair with you!

Other than that, pack as you would for any warm destination and leave the flashy items at home.

Connectivity

Zanzibar has frequent power outages and often poor WiFi. If you’re looking to work remotely check your accommodation has a backup generator and their WiFi speed. Freshi, the co-working place I stayed in Jambiani, has both a backup generator and high speed WiFi. It’s also part owned by a local.

Data connection is generally good in most parts of the island.

Data providers include Airtel, Vodacom, Tigo/ Zantel and Halotel. I purchased a Zantel SIM at Terminal 2 upon arrival. It would have been cheaper to get it outside of the airport but I needed to connectivity straight away. Another option would be to buy an Airalo eSIM upon arrival and then switch it out for a local one later, if that’s what you wanted. Or sticking with Airalo for your whole trip. It’s a matter of personal preference.

What to eat in Zanzibar

Swahili cuisine is, in my opinion, vastly underrated and so I strongly encourage you to try it! It’s not an exaggeration to say it’s my favourite cuisine (ESPECIALLY chapati). I didn’t take photos of anything I ate due to the locations in which I was eating; the above photo is from one of my epic breakfasts at Freshi.

Foods to try include:

• Urojo (soup)
• Pilau rice (spiced rice)
• Chapati (flaky flatbread)
• Mandazi (doughnut style bites)
• Chipsi mayai (chips in an omlette)
• Nyma choma and ugali (grilled meat and a thick porridge made of maize)

I’m also especially partial to a Swahili-style curry, which has a tomato and coconut milk base.

If you only eat at hotels and restaurants that cater for tourists then, I promise you, you’ll be missing out on some of the best food of your life. The best food I had in Zanzibar was also in the real local restaurants, especially those that don’t even have a menu.

Everyone recommends Lukmaan’s in Stone Town and, whilst I did enjoy my meal there, it wasn’t on the same level as the truly local restaurants in Jambiani and Paje.

Is it safe to travel to Zanzibar?

Zanzibar is safe. There is almost no violent crime and locals are very friendly and helpful.

However, tourists can be targeted for certain crimes and so it is good to be aware and prepared, so you can minimise any risk.

As with many places, if you flash expensive jewellery, or objects, then you are likely to make yourself the target of a robbery. Please also exercise caution when travelling by car, especially from the airport or at night, as on some rural roads if doors aren’t locked items can be stolen from your seat or boot. I held on to my rucksack until I’d arrived at my accommodation and I never have my phone out in a car if the doors are unlocked, especially if the window is open.

There have been some instances of tourists being robbed during the night. The risk of this increases just before Ramadan. To minimise your risk, keep your phone and any valuable items away from the sight of any window. When you sleep, don’t leave your mobile phone on the bedside table or anywhere near a window. Make sure all doors are locked and any open windows have grill. Choose accommodation that has security on site. If you did find yourself a victim of a robbery, it’s possible you could recover items by alerting locals and, sometimes, paying a bribe.

Some corrupt police officers have been known to try and bribe tourists, especially by stopping their car when they’re driving, but if you know your rights and haven’t actually committed a crime they will let you go: you should never give them money.

Solo travel in Zanzibar

As a female travelling solo in Zanzibar I never felt unsafe. It did help that I acquired Maasai body guards for most of my time but not once did I encounter any scary situations and everyone was very kind to me.

For me, the challenge was the incessant attention of men, and the ever-present beach boys trying to sell me something. A firm, “Hamna pesa” (I have no money) will usually end their harassment. As an aside, don’t buy tours from beach boys; for tours and taxis use reputable people that have been recommended by others.

As a general rule, don’t venture out alone after 10pm and be extra cautious after dark, especially during low season. It’s not a good idea to walk on the beach at night alone, either.

What languages are spoken in Zanzibar?

The official language of Zanzibar is Swahili. Locals are taught English in schools and often speak a diverse range of languages, including Arabic, Italian and French. You will see English everywhere, on signs, menus, etc.

Swahili is a phonetic language, meaning you generally pronounce the words as they are written.

Useful Swahili phrases

Habari/ Habari gani/ Habari yako – use this like ‘Hello/ How are you?’ It means ‘What’s the news?’ If someone says this to you, reply with ‘Nzuri’. If they say ‘Mambo’, which is more informal, say ‘Poa’.

Shikamoo – a respectful way to say hello to someone who is older than you. They will reply ‘Marhaba.’

Tafadhali – please.

Asante (sana) – thank you (very much).

Karibu/ Karibu sana – welcome/ you’re very welcome

Samahani – ‘Excuse me’ or ‘Sorry’.

Ndio – yes.

Hapana – no (no thank you is ‘Hapana asante’.)

Pole Pole – slowly. Pole can also be used to say ‘I’m sorry’. Or ‘Pole sana’ for ‘I’m very sorry’.

Pesa Ngapi – how much?

Usiku mwema – goodnight.

Kwaheri – goodbye.

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Read about my travels in Zanzibar here >>

Read my review of Mr Kahawa in Zanzibar here >>

Find out more about the introduction of mandatory travel insurance in Zanzibar here >>

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